When she was working as fashion editor for “Acne Paper” she felt there wasn’t enough space for writing, despite its high quality contents. With a background in Academia, her need is to develop the critical approach of Fashion more than just the visual aspect that is the biggest component of fashion magazines today. In 2009 she then decided to found her own magazine about sartorial stuff.
Anja Aronowsky Cronberg’s “Vestoj” ranks among theory and practice, as a bridge: because the opinion space is in between the inside and the outside of Fashion.
Every Issue opens with a Manifesto in which the point number 8 declares its state of freedom: Advertising is forbidden!
We went to a lecture at The Book Club in London where she was invited among other editors to talk about her magazine, its different approach on the mass, the print process, the sponsors and the daily routine it requires. Apparently the most of the time is spent on emails, building relationship and looking for the right contributors for the next issue. People with different backgrounds as Journalism, Art Direction, Trend Forecasting, Curation, but with something in common: they’re the best professionals to talk about a special subject. Then there is the theme’s choice and the cropping, the format of the new issue.
The fourth issue is divided in two parts; the former is about the power that fashion wields from a politic and historic point of view, and the latter is composed by twelve interviews on power with a topical emphasis among fashion professionals: Robin Givhan (Fashion and Culture Critic, The Washington Post, Newsweek, The Guardian), Didier Grumbach (President, Fédération de la Couture and the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture), Irene Silvagni (Former Creative Director, Yohji Yamamoto), Valerie Steele (Director, the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology), just to name a few.
Leafing through the pages the reader can find a good balance between current events as Globalisation or Advertisings and introspective ones about History and Politic as Modernism in Russia and the Power of Uniforms.
I’m a fashion enthusiast. I love fashion so much that sometime I forget to be an architect, but this subject is often vitiated. Magazines as “Vestoj” or “Fashion Theory” are a reminder that Fashion must always be taken seriously. Same as for each matter you can choose to look behind things.
That’s what the team of “Vestoj” is doing. From the minutiae of clothing to the grand themes of fashion, it analyses what’s behind the already seen or written.
Camilla Ginevra Bo’
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