Today, more than ever, men’s fashion plays on two simple words: past and present. It might seem like a game of kids. It is actually one of the most complicated puzzles before the designer, and then for the man who will wear his creations. They know well the young Talents of the Academy of Costume and Fashion, which submitted 10 capsule collection during the last (and long awaited) edition of AltaRoma.
If you are born creative, you become a designer. The Academy of Costume and Fashion is the natural habitat for “becoming”. Creative director, for instance. As the “new man” of Gucci, Alessandro Michele. Or responsible or creating materials. As the role of Marco Mastroianni for Louis Vuitton, former pupil who this year received the award Irene Brin.
In fashion there are intervals, but only new seasons to play. The runway, staged in the new spaces of the Auditorium, thus becomes a field. And the boundaries are well tracked. While women’s collections are lined with precious materials and clear references to the costume, surpassing the line we find the male and accessories. The man wears many different faces. All contemporary.
It starts with the collection of Andrea Alfidi, “TEKNO VINTAGE”. A clandestine metropolitan wandering in search of his space. The neoprene and econappa are cut over, to build the geometries of outerwear. Decisive is the role of the denim. Layers that hide a silent man, to cover his face with his knitwear neutral colours. Steal vintage images from the world but also street.
The ball goes to Frederico Bucari. Inspiration: the texture of the golf ball. Sport is an excuse to wear a new uniform. Minimal, clean and completely white. The non-colour enhances technical fabrics and special processing. As in the sports world, the accessories allow us to play. Backpacks, shoes and hats caps are covered with soft pony skin. The collection “PAR4” buys shades sporty-chic.
Margherita Feliciangeli and the project “Under the jacket.” The protagonist is just the jacket double face, able to change skin to the man who wears it. So the classic men’s suits become “heavy” due to the tattoo prints.
To move the game thinks Nicolas Martin Garcia. The “Lolito” is a provocation, in which you mix genres and ages. An enfant terrible who steals the leaders from the female wardrobe: coats with fur collars, divided skirt and baby doll dresses. A bittersweet taste. The colours mat ice cream melting on felted wool, three-dimensional fabrics and rubber, fur shaved and the inevitable neoprene. The collection follows a trend funny very current, which won the prize in 2015 Talents.
With the number 5 printed on the collar of waterproof coloured oil, takes the field the team of Silvia Stefanucci. A mood of post-punk, as it suggests the song of “The Dogs” that resonates in the background. The theme is recycling. Not only to primary materials, but as a lifestyle of modern man (and woman). Always ready to reinvent himself. So fine leather (crocodile, snake) is combined with garbage bags. The modular pockets moving from maxxi bags to boots.
The young designer was awarded the special prize for the accessories section. A real home run! As we learnt from the Italian singer De Gregori: “a player you see on the courage, selflessness and imagination.”
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